By Hook or By Crook

 

Quite apt this cromwellian phrase (apparently) for our tenacity today, as we got a lot done, one way or another.  Apparently it does refernce Cromwells focus on capturing parts of Leinster whether it by Hook (more on that later) or Crook, another village near Waterford.

We left our lodgings before 8, a journey to Killkenny needed to start early; it felt like 45 miles in 90 mins was sat nav malfunction but you have to believe the science. And we got there around 9.15 but nowhere near the start of the parkrun, couldn't even see the Castle and pitched up on its lawn at 9.32 as the runners were counted off.  So we missed the briefing and learnt as we went, 2.5 loop course with 3 hills.

Beautiful surrounds for a parkrun nonetheless, and a few chats with the locals to find out where to get the post run coffee, and, as it turned out, cheese and ham toastie.  Not something I normally have at this time in the morning, but it felt quite appropriate as we were in a local hostelry well before midday, fulfilling my trips dream of having a pint of Kilkenny in Kilkenny. Been a while since I supped it, with it being a popular beverage during my backpacker days in Australia.  The Field bar we found to drink it was quintessentially Irish, fab decor, music and welcoming staff. Exactly the kind of place you could while away a whole afternoon .. if only I didn't have the car with me.

Took a stroll around this medieval city, really well worth a visit, Anglo Norman heritage began via a fella with the name of Strongbow.  Love it.  But plenty of nods to that time in the look and feel of the place, I keep getting pulled into the land of Dungeons and Dragons a lot on this trip, it is standing me in good stead.  I'll be launching my trebuchet at the castle walls before you can say 10th level fireball.

After some more conventional shopping, books and cans of Kilkenny, we were on the more well maintained roads and heading south for our next stop.  On the subject of roads... junctions are becoming a little bit of an irritation.. often unmarked, and with limited sighting of the approaching roads.  Perhaps better for horse and carts out in the wilds, oh I'm off on a wilderness adventure now.

The weather has been glorious so far, but as we arrived at Hook Point it suddenly closed in, and we could immediately see the trouble that could befall mariners here as the Celtic Sea, Strait of St George and Atlantic Ocean appears to converge in these parts.  But luckily for them they have got the oldest working lighthouse in the world, and who knew so much history could be drawn from this imposing phallus.

We sheltered from the weather in more modern surrounds with a coffee before we were called to our tour at 3.30, start at the red door they said. Every bloody door in the whole complex was red, but we eventually found our tour guide, and how glad we were. She guided us from the 5th century welsh monk Dubhan (doesn't sound very welsh, although probably a better accent than the hologram they had talking for him, only worse welsh accent I've heard recently was Sarah Lancashire in that awful drama TheAccident) who started this whole venture to the 11the century Norman nobleman William Marshall who appeared to have supported every King of the Middle Ages and married into a well established Irish nobility, to the more modern keepers of this fascinating place.  I felt I'd done my GCSE in History all over again by the time minute tour came to an end can heartily recommend.

Our thirst for knowledge knew no bounds today and we were a little intrigued by mention in the tour of a certain Tintern Abbey established in these parts, a tribute to the larger one on our home doorstep. This Marshall fellow responsible for this too, so Chrissi and I took it upon ourselves to take a look and nod knowingly that its nothing on the Monmouthshire version.

Driving back through the quaint little villages and countryside we thought back to that European supermarket we visited a couple of nights ago and decided a night filled with bread, cheese, beer, wine, and other such snacks would be the kind of feast that those noblemen of yesteryear might have enjoyed. Plus we were knackered and wanted to enjoy our last relaxing night in our Air Bnb. I guess its only downside is to not really be in walking distance of a pub/restaurant, and to get all dressed up to go out for one pint not really my preference.

- Carys -

As you can see, a busy day today but am still finding it difficult to muster uo the words to encapsulate it. That's not to say it was boring by any means, today especially I've had a lovely time, but I think since it is going so quickly, it's a little harder to describe.

Anyway, in contrast to yesterday, up and out the door well before 8, with our wristbands ready and running shoes on, we made our way to Kilkenny. A nice scenic route, and good weather to start our day off.

We soon switched from very relaxed to slightly frenzied, as we arrived, and it became clear we did not really have any idea where we were going. The castle was our landmark, and from our parking spot, it was not visible. So we stumbled around for a while in search of this striking landmark, and with the help of a local dog walker, we found our way. We had a mad dash up some stairs and round some corners as we still coudldn't see the castle, and eventually the trees cleared into a big open space where the castle was. It was really pretty, and faced a large expanse of grass, where we spotted the group of parkrunners having there briefing. So we made the awkward walk/run over to the group as we could now see them but expected them to beginat any minute. Luckily we made it there just in time, so very well warmed up, we set off and ran the two larger laps and one smaller lap that made up the route.

Thankfully it was mostly inside the forest, so we avoided the beating sun which was unexpected but really appreciated. We had some breakfast at the pop-up  cafe by the catsle, and enjoyed the scenery for a little while. Then we did a little bit of exploring around the city; I treated myself to some books in a bookshop. I've noticed so many ruins since arriving here, not to mention the countless churches and cathedrals. Most homes seem to have some kind of crumbling tower in their back garden, and remains of larger buildings have popped up very frequently. I think that is something I will associate with Ireland from here on out. 

We'd stayed up to our limit in the car park, so moved on, driving out to the Hookhead Lighthouse. Immediately the weather chnged, with clouds becoming overcast, and drizzle starting. By the time we'd stepped out of the car, which was parked right by the rocks on the sea, the wind was blowing the drizzle into our faces and wow was it cold. The contrast from just a few hours earlier was bizarre.

It felt quite cosy sitting in the cafe observing the waves crashing on the rocks - I guess that's kind of the scene you imagine when you think about the sea in stories and that. We went on for our Lighthouse Tour with Claire our tourguide, who was brilliant, although having only been there a week. She was so knowledgable about the building, and the area around - she explained that she lived nearby so she'd grown up hearing its history. It was intriguing hearing how she desrcibed the lighthouse's past, and other acts about it also. We got to stand on the top to observe the views, which unfortunately were mostly shrouded by the mist, but the strong winds nearly knocking us over was a very refreshing experience. 

We decided we'd had enough excitement for the day then and after a quick stop in the supermarket to pick up some buffet bits for dinner, we came back home to settle in for the eveving. Another great day ticked off, and time to get some sleep I think.