Quite apt this cromwellian phrase (apparently) for our tenacity today, as we got a lot done, one way or another. Apparently it does refernce Cromwells focus on capturing parts of Leinster whether it by Hook (more on that later) or Crook, another village near Waterford.
We left our lodgings before 8, a journey to Killkenny needed to start early; it felt like 45 miles in 90 mins was sat nav malfunction but you have to believe the science. And we got there around 9.15 but nowhere near the start of the parkrun, couldn't even see the Castle and pitched up on its lawn at 9.32 as the runners were counted off. So we missed the briefing and learnt as we went, 2.5 loop course with 3 hills.
Beautiful surrounds for a parkrun nonetheless, and a few chats with the locals to find out where to get the post run coffee, and, as it turned out, cheese and ham toastie. Not something I normally have at this time in the morning, but it felt quite appropriate as we were in a local hostelry well before midday, fulfilling my trips dream of having a pint of Kilkenny in Kilkenny. Been a while since I supped it, with it being a popular beverage during my backpacker days in Australia. The Field bar we found to drink it was quintessentially Irish, fab decor, music and welcoming staff. Exactly the kind of place you could while away a whole afternoon .. if only I didn't have the car with me.
Took a stroll around this medieval city, really well worth a visit, Anglo Norman heritage began via a fella with the name of Strongbow. Love it. But plenty of nods to that time in the look and feel of the place, I keep getting pulled into the land of Dungeons and Dragons a lot on this trip, it is standing me in good stead. I'll be launching my trebuchet at the castle walls before you can say 10th level fireball.
After some more conventional shopping, books and cans of Kilkenny, we were on the more well maintained roads and heading south for our next stop. On the subject of roads... junctions are becoming a little bit of an irritation.. often unmarked, and with limited sighting of the approaching roads. Perhaps better for horse and carts out in the wilds, oh I'm off on a wilderness adventure now.
The weather has been glorious so far, but as we arrived at Hook Point it suddenly closed in, and we could immediately see the trouble that could befall mariners here as the Celtic Sea, Strait of St George and Atlantic Ocean appears to converge in these parts. But luckily for them they have got the oldest working lighthouse in the world, and who knew so much history could be drawn from this imposing phallus.
We sheltered from the weather in more modern surrounds with a coffee before we were called to our tour at 3.30, start at the red door they said. Every bloody door in the whole complex was red, but we eventually found our tour guide, and how glad we were. She guided us from the 5th century welsh monk Dubhan (doesn't sound very welsh, although probably a better accent than the hologram they had talking for him, only worse welsh accent I've heard recently was Sarah Lancashire in that awful drama TheAccident) who started this whole venture to the 11the century Norman nobleman William Marshall who appeared to have supported every King of the Middle Ages and married into a well established Irish nobility, to the more modern keepers of this fascinating place. I felt I'd done my GCSE in History all over again by the time minute tour came to an end can heartily recommend.
Our thirst for knowledge knew no bounds today and we were a little intrigued by mention in the tour of a certain Tintern Abbey established in these parts, a tribute to the larger one on our home doorstep. This Marshall fellow responsible for this too, so Chrissi and I took it upon ourselves to take a look and nod knowingly that its nothing on the Monmouthshire version.
Driving back through the quaint little villages and countryside we thought back to that European supermarket we visited a couple of nights ago and decided a night filled with bread, cheese, beer, wine, and other such snacks would be the kind of feast that those noblemen of yesteryear might have enjoyed. Plus we were knackered and wanted to enjoy our last relaxing night in our Air Bnb. I guess its only downside is to not really be in walking distance of a pub/restaurant, and to get all dressed up to go out for one pint not really my preference.
- Carys -
As you can see, a busy day today but am still finding it difficult to muster uo the words to encapsulate it. That's not to say it was boring by any means, today especially I've had a lovely time, but I think since it is going so quickly, it's a little harder to describe.
Anyway, in contrast to yesterday, up and out the door well before 8, with our wristbands ready and running shoes on, we made our way to Kilkenny. A nice scenic route, and good weather to start our day off.
We soon switched from very relaxed to slightly frenzied, as we arrived, and it became clear we did not really have any idea where we were going. The castle was our landmark, and from our parking spot, it was not visible. So we stumbled around for a while in search of this striking landmark, and with the help of a local dog walker, we found our way. We had a mad dash up some stairs and round some corners as we still coudldn't see the castle, and eventually the trees cleared into a big open space where the castle was. It was really pretty, and faced a large expanse of grass, where we spotted the group of parkrunners having there briefing. So we made the awkward walk/run over to the group as we could now see them but expected them to beginat any minute. Luckily we made it there just in time, so very well warmed up, we set off and ran the two larger laps and one smaller lap that made up the route.
Thankfully it was mostly inside the forest, so we avoided the beating sun which was unexpected but really appreciated. We had some breakfast at the pop-up cafe by the catsle, and enjoyed the scenery for a little while. Then we did a little bit of exploring around the city; I treated myself to some books in a bookshop. I've noticed so many ruins since arriving here, not to mention the countless churches and cathedrals. Most homes seem to have some kind of crumbling tower in their back garden, and remains of larger buildings have popped up very frequently. I think that is something I will associate with Ireland from here on out.
We'd stayed up to our limit in the car park, so moved on, driving out to the Hookhead Lighthouse. Immediately the weather chnged, with clouds becoming overcast, and drizzle starting. By the time we'd stepped out of the car, which was parked right by the rocks on the sea, the wind was blowing the drizzle into our faces and wow was it cold. The contrast from just a few hours earlier was bizarre.
It felt quite cosy sitting in the cafe observing the waves crashing on the rocks - I guess that's kind of the scene you imagine when you think about the sea in stories and that. We went on for our Lighthouse Tour with Claire our tourguide, who was brilliant, although having only been there a week. She was so knowledgable about the building, and the area around - she explained that she lived nearby so she'd grown up hearing its history. It was intriguing hearing how she desrcibed the lighthouse's past, and other acts about it also. We got to stand on the top to observe the views, which unfortunately were mostly shrouded by the mist, but the strong winds nearly knocking us over was a very refreshing experience.
We decided we'd had enough excitement for the day then and after a quick stop in the supermarket to pick up some buffet bits for dinner, we came back home to settle in for the eveving. Another great day ticked off, and time to get some sleep I think.
Anyone got the Billy Joel melody now swirling in their mind? No, well, he didn't start the fire you know. How about now? All wistful and random today, perhaps a bit over tired, but the melodies of Clannad evoking chilled reflections after plenty of energy used in the daylight hours.
Started with a run for some early morning fresh air, establish a simple loop and locate the nearest beach, all whilst the rest of the crew were dreaming their little dreams.
Glorious sunshine mean an al fresco breakfast and more of those delicious scones from yesterday given the full attention they deserved. Chance to catch up on social media, and read some more of the psychology of time travel, a dimension to this whole travel lark that will not feature.
Chrissi and I then did a few miles trek on the Cullenstown shoreline, couldn't quite get my head around the coastal path (have added to our links) as I think it cuts inland so we simply walked amongst the shells, rocks and seaweed for as long as we could. Some very beautiful and remote coastline, very few tourists but unspoilt coastline being lapped at by the Irish Sea I believe. Suddenly had a flashback to a mini series called The Beachcombers at this point, does anyone remember that? Seem to remember the lead actor was a cross between Bobby Ball and Matthew Cames Dad. (only a couple may get the second reference) We also had a little concern about snakes in the long grass when we did take the odd look inland, until I remembered later in the day there are no snakes in Ireland. Also a house made of shells, am starting to think faerie tales are real out here.
Carys had taken some time to do some work whilst we did our first exploration, and we took some time on return to the cottage for her to finish off what she was doing, whilst we enjoyed some nice coffee, a tidy little coffee maker as part of the set up, so not missing our asks of Bryn after one of his long shifts at Costa.
The afternoon we had determined to visit Kilmore Quay, a busy little fishing village that had come recommended and we could see in the distance from our morning walk. Took a little drive through the narrow country lanes, but good parking and all very compact to have a look around.
Quite taken by a memorial 'garden' to the many thousands of Irish lost at sea over the years and took some time to take all that in. We then cast our own views and thoughts to the horizon, firstly picking out the 2 Saltee Islands that sit off the coast in this part of the world. An ecologists treasure chest I am led to believe, but would have taken a level of organisation that perhaps wasn't included in this trip to book onone of the 4 hour trips that are availalbe to land on these little private havens.
Instead we took in the marina and did our own circular walk of the town, a thatchers dream, the cottages out here, and I'm not talking cider.
We determined to eat late afternoon today, everyone a little tired, and actually quite looking forward to a Summers evening with a cider or 2 and a good book in the tranquility of Cullentsown. A recomnmendation by both our hosts and the Lonley Planet was Mary Barrys seafood restaurant
The surrounds were most pleasant and the service great, as befitted the pricing in the menu. The food was also of really good quality, I had a Malaysian Satay Chicken Starter which was all very tender and peanuty. Main course had to be sea food but with an eastern taint, prawn and monkfish yellow curry - the monkfish very meaty, the prawns very light, an excellent combination. The cost however, in my opinion, a little more than perhaps it should have been, but hey, I am a bit of a tight old bugger.
And with a couple of very busy days ahead it was time to just take an early evening pause in the running from place to place with clear blue skies, a great view, and the sound of countryside silence to chill out to. Although am thinking maybe a bit of Clannad to add to the mellow feel, lets return to Billy Joel to end.
- Carys -
A nice lie in to give us a bit rest this morning, followed by jam toast which, as boring as it sounds, I usually don't have at home so added to the feeling of 'newness' about being on holiday. Though a bit disappointing I decided it best to stay home and get on with some Physcis which I truly an not a fan of, instead of explore the nearby beach that is visible from our cottage. I am hoping to go another day as I now feel left out despite it being on my own terms. Anyway, I was somewhat productive so felt some relief, and seemed to learn quite a bit in preparation for my exam on Wednesday.
Got ready to head out then, and drove to the harbour, which I thought was really beautiful. I thought the air held a pungent whiff of fish, but maybe that catches my senses off guard as a vegetarian. That's probably quite a dramatic way to describe it. Anyway, once I'd gotten used to the scent, I could better appreicate the refreshing feel of salty sea air. It feels like a lifetime since I'd been to a beach so I very much enjoyed the experience, and made the most of it. We took a stroll along the front, visited a memorial site shaped like a boat, and observed the marina where many varyingly shaped, sized and coloured boats were docked.
We couldn't continue though without a quick stop in 'Lick'd' the ice cream parlour acrosd the road, where mum and I endulged in a Mr Whippy each - our first this year, so we were very excited.
We went for a loop around the village, which was lovely - with thatched roofs and small pastel doors. They were the type of houses I'd love to live in one day, expecially the ones that overlooked the sea.
We encountered a few dogs, who we questioned whether they had owners for a little while, but after they continued to just walk around freely, with no one following them, we decided they were locals to the beach, on their evening stroll. Although it was too early for dinner, we'd skipped lunch (except for the Mr Whippy), we visited the Mary Barry pub for food. I avoided the counbtless options of fish meals, and chose for my starter, breaded brie, which was just amazing as expected, and for my main, vegetable curry and chips. The chips were especially great because they were exacly like fish and chip shop chips, with salt and vinegar and all. I decided against dessert but wasn't too upset as I was very full from my lovely meal.
After we'd appreciated all we could in the village, we came back to the house and spent the evening in quite a relaxing way. A bit more revision, some snacks, and now off to bed for before an early start tomorrow.
Pomposity, Pageantry and Privilege 3 very good reasons to get away this weekend. But travel isn't generally about running from stuff in our case, but being attracted to new experience. But it would be fair to say one of the key attractions was finding the nearest location that allows an escape from the billy bunting, and some quiet contemplation in the adopted land of Jack Charlton.
So up we got, leaving Bryn to man the fort, advising him if he really did feel the need to party then to be the only royalist in the family and join the street celebrations on Friday. Right onto the important stuff...
First pit stop was at my parents house which nicely broke up the journey to Fishguard. A lovely little suntrap in their back garden for breakfast set a nice holiday tone.
Was then onto the port, with a quick stop at Halfords as our limited planning meant we did not have the required UK bumper sticker, which notably, on arrival in Ireland, noone else appeared to have attached anyway. So nothing to worry about there, the garda didn't look too interested. Infact no passport checks either side either as it turned out.
Made it to the port with a few minutes to spare, my cavalier approach to this trip noted by Chrissi, but not to our detriment today. It looks like most of the problems were ports on the continental side, and perhaps airports a bit Russian roulette at this moment.
Great to get onto the ferry and settle down to a bit of reading, although I was quite taken by a video poker machine, but kept that in check as there will plenty of time for all that on another trip in the not too distant future. Quick glance in the duty free and some good bargains for us to snaffle on return, perhaps the first personal benefit I've seen of Brexit in the entire time since it was voted for.
On disembarking it was a quick switch of the sat nav to Irish mode, no change of accent although I'm having fun finding my own Irish voice. Around 40 minutes winding our way through a bit of rural countryside, through Duncormick to a small little hamlet near the coast called Cullenstown.
Our very modern but picturesque abode introduced by the AirBnb owners David and Mary, made us feel very welcome, home made scones the jam and clotted cream on a very nice cake.
We of course needed to find a bit of additional wholesome food and atmospher for our first night here, and drove around 7k (am thinking metric is the future now) to a little place called Wellingtonbridge which had a few shops and an interesting sounding restaurant Tir na nog.
Later discovered this actually the name for the 'Land of Youth' a Celtic Otherworld that appealed to the geeky Dungeons and Dragons teenager that still lurks within. Couldn't get into Stranger Things though, so perhaps it is fading.
The more immediate food served up was what caught my eye, and the opportunity to have the first Guinness of the trip. Main course of Bacon and Cabbage was so much more than that, a mountain of potato and several other root vegetables lovingly ladeled in cheese. Absolutely stuffed, but still found room for a bit of trifle, 1980s style and perhaps my only nod to the nonsense back home.
As the sun began to set we drove back to our lodgings, following a windy estuary that seemed to be overlooked by all manner of ruined castles. Perhaps that Otherworld was beckoning, but not for long,we were enjoying a wine and some quiet contemplation back in our Courtyard accommodation.
Carys -
Started off the day feeling relatively tired; an early start to get ready for our venture. Once we were all packed up we headed off West, with a stop in to see Nan and Bamps for some breakfast and chat. Had a nice catch up, and then we were on our way.
We travelled the furthest West I've ever been, having never gone past Pembrey before, and arrived in Fishguard. It wasn't a long wait before we were able to board the ferry, and we headed up onto the deck to observe the boat set sail.
That was an interesting experience, with a nice breeze and a nice view also. The jorueny was longer than I'd anticipated so we settled into the cafe after failing to find absolutely anywhere with a plug other than the charging stations you need to pay for, and ones above boilers etc. I had some disjointed lunch, having left most of my snacks in the car, and then went for a wander, and with relief found a plug on the floor in some random part of the boat. I sat here for a while so I could charge my latop. Time went quicker then, and it was time to exit the ferry.
We drove for a little while before arriving in Duncormick, where we found our accommodation without much difficulty - I was grateful for once we didn't get horribly lost. We met our hosts and had a nosy around. It's a lovely cottage, so picturesque and nicely decorated, and extremely clean which makes it feel so homely. As you can see from the pictures it's just right for the stay we wanted.
We got settled in for a short while, and then headed out, 10 minutes down the road in search for food. We parked up and popped into a little supermarket, which surprisingly might be the highlight of my day. It was so lovely - had a very European feel, with a gorgeous bakery and nice atosphere. Maybe an odd thing to think, but i very much liked it in there.
We ate our dinner in the Tir Na Nog Pub, where I had my first taste of Irish food - (spring rolls for started) and leek and potato soup with rye bread. I thought it was delicious, but couldn't deny dessert, despite being full, of course, so chose apple and rhubarb crumble with custard.
We took some lovely pictures on our way home, with a nice sunset for a backdrop, and are now relaxing back at the cottage, enjoying it's cosy ambience. Also, I was wrong about the supermarket being the highlight of my day, as I got to have a nice cwtch with Tootsie the cat who lives in the surrounding area and apparently likes to enter people's homes casually.